Here’s the truth: the “best” bowl isn’t trendy or pretty-it’s safe, complete, and balanced for your dog’s age, size, and health. If the label, the recipe, and the brand’s quality control don’t stack up, your dog misses nutrients or risks contamination. That’s fixable, and it starts with a simple framework.
Dog nutrition is the science of feeding dogs the right nutrients (protein, fat, carbohydrates, fiber, vitamins, minerals, and essential fatty acids) in the right amounts to meet life-stage and health needs. A complete and balanced diet provides all essential nutrients at levels proven safe and adequate by recognized standards.
TL;DR
- The best thing to feed most dogs is a complete and balanced diet that meets AAFCO or FEDIAF profiles and fits your dog’s life stage, size, and health.
- Pick format (kibble, wet, fresh-cooked, air-dried, raw) for your lifestyle, safety tolerance, and budget-nutritional adequacy beats trend.
- Feed by calories, not just cups: RER = 70 × (kg^0.75); multiply by activity/life-stage factor; use Body Condition Score to fine-tune.
- Choose brands that follow WSAVA-aligned practices: a qualified nutritionist, feeding trials, robust quality control, and transparent contact.
- Transition over 5-7 days; keep treats under 10% of daily calories; avoid toxic foods (grapes, xylitol, onions, chocolate).
What “best” really means (and how to spot it)
“Best” isn’t a single ingredient or a fad. It’s complete, balanced, safe, and appropriate for your dog’s life stage and health. In practice, that means the food follows recognized nutrient standards and the company can prove it.
AAFCO is a U.S.-based association that publishes nutrient profiles and feeding trial protocols for dogs. Labels stating “complete and balanced” for a life stage (e.g., adult maintenance, growth including large size) indicate alignment with AAFCO profiles or feeding trials. In Europe, many brands align with FEDIAF (the European pet food industry body) which provides nutrient guidelines similar to AAFCO, including life-stage targets and safety limits. Many New Zealand-made foods also target AAFCO/FEDIAF levels and follow Ministry for Primary Industries (MPI) rules for processing and export.
WSAVA (World Small Animal Veterinary Association) publishes Global Nutrition Guidelines that help owners and vets assess pet foods and companies. WSAVA-aligned companies typically employ a qualified nutritionist (e.g., PhD or board-certified), run or reference feeding trials, publish digestibility data, and maintain strong quality control.
So, the best everyday answer for most dogs? A complete and balanced commercial diet from a company that meets these standards and communicates clearly. Format (kibble, wet, fresh-cooked, etc.) is a secondary decision based on your dog’s preferences, your budget, and food safety comfort.
Choose your format: compare the real trade-offs
Different formats can all be great if they’re truly complete and balanced and handled safely. The differences are moisture, energy density, palatability, cost, and safety risk.
Kibble (dry dog food) is an extruded diet with low moisture (about 8-12%), long shelf life, and high energy density (roughly 300-450 kcal per cup). It’s convenient and economical, but texture doesn’t replace brushing for dental care.
Wet dog food (canned) has high moisture (about 70-85%), strong palatability, and lower energy density (often ~90-120 kcal per 100 g). It can help with hydration and picky eaters but costs more per 1,000 kcal and needs refrigeration after opening.
Fresh-cooked (refrigerated or frozen) diets bring home-style appeal and digestibility but watch for true completion and balancing. Air-dried or freeze-dried diets are convenient and energy-dense; rehydrate for better digestion, especially in small dogs.
Raw feeding (BARF or prey-model) offers minimally processed ingredients but carries higher risk of bacterial contamination (e.g., Salmonella, Campylobacter, Listeria) and nutrient imbalance if not formulated by a qualified nutritionist. Freezing and HPP lower but don’t remove microbial risk.
Veterinary-only therapeutic products exist for specific conditions (kidney disease, allergies, GI disorders). They’re not general-purpose foods and should be fed under veterinary guidance.
| Format | Moisture | Energy density (approx.) | Food safety risk | Shelf life (opened) | Typical cost per 1,000 kcal | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kibble | 8-12% | 300-450 kcal/cup | Low | 3-6 weeks | Low | Convenient; not a substitute for tooth brushing |
| Wet (canned) | 70-85% | ~90-120 kcal/100 g | Low | 2-3 days refrigerated | Moderate-High | Great for picky eaters and hydration |
| Fresh-cooked (frozen/chilled) | 60-75% | Varies (often ~120-180 kcal/100 g) | Low-Moderate | 2-4 days refrigerated | High | Ensure diet is formulated to be complete and balanced |
| Air-/Freeze-dried | 5-12% | 450-600 kcal/cup | Moderate | 2-4 weeks after opening | High | Rehydrate for better tolerance; very energy dense |
| Raw | 60-75% | Varies | Higher | 1-2 days refrigerated | Moderate-High | Strict hygiene; consult your vet about risks and balancing |
| Home-cooked | Varies | Varies | Moderate | 2-4 days refrigerated | Moderate-High | Must use a vet nutritionist formula and supplements |
How much to feed: a simple math that actually works
Start with calories, then adjust using body condition. Cups are rough; calories are precise.
Resting Energy Requirement (RER) is a dog’s baseline caloric need at rest: RER = 70 × (body weight in kg)^0.75. Multiply RER by a life-stage/activity factor (MER) to estimate daily calories.
- Typical neutered adult: RER × 1.6
- Intact adult: RER × 1.8
- Active/working: RER × 2.0-5.0 (wide range)
- Puppy 0-4 months: RER × 3.0; 4-12 months: RER × 2.0
- Weight loss: RER × 1.0 (or less, under vet guidance)
Example: a 20 kg neutered adult: RER ≈ 70 × 20^0.75 ≈ 662 kcal. Daily goal ≈ 662 × 1.6 ≈ 1,060 kcal. If the food is 380 kcal/cup, feed about 2.8 cups/day, divided into meals. Re-check in 2-3 weeks.
Body Condition Score (BCS) is a 1-9 scale assessing fat coverage; 4-5/9 is ideal. You should feel ribs easily with a slight fat cover, see a waist from above, and a tummy tuck from the side. If BCS creeps up, drop calories by ~10-15%; if it dips, raise by ~10-15%.
Life stage and special needs: match the bowl to the body
Puppies need growth diets that meet AAFCO “growth” (and for large-breed pups, “growth including large size”). Large-breed puppy formulas control calcium and energy to protect developing joints. Feed 3-4 meals/day until 4 months, then 2-3 meals.
Healthy adults can use “adult maintenance” foods. Seniors do not automatically need low protein; many thrive on moderate-to-high quality protein unless they have a condition like advanced kidney disease-then a vet-prescribed diet is best.
For allergies and chronic GI upsets, your vet may suggest a hydrolyzed-protein or novel-protein diet. For kidney, liver, urinary, pancreatic, or severe GI disease, a therapeutic product is often essential.
Veterinary therapeutic diet is a complete and balanced food formulated for specific medical conditions (e.g., renal, dermatologic, gastrointestinal). These are evidence-based and should be used under veterinary supervision.
Ingredients that actually matter (and how to read the label)
Protein quality beats protein hype. Named animal proteins (e.g., chicken, beef, lamb, fish) or named meals provide essential amino acids. Many reputable foods target 22-30% protein (dry matter) for adults; exact needs vary by dog and condition.
Fat supplies energy and essential fatty acids. Look for omega-3s (EPA/DHA) from fish oil or marine sources. Typical supplemental doses are about 50-100 mg EPA+DHA per kg body weight per day, but check with your vet if your dog has GI or bleeding risks.
Carbs and fiber support gut health. Beet pulp, pumpkin, and inulin-type fibers help stool quality. Probiotics (e.g., Lactobacillus strains) can support digestion; look for meaningful CFU counts and storage directions.
New Zealand twist: many local foods include lamb, hoki, and green-lipped mussel. Green-lipped mussel is rich in omega-3s and glycosaminoglycans that support joints; it’s common in joint diets here for a reason.
Minerals matter. Calcium to phosphorus should sit around 1:1 to 1.6:1; too much calcium in puppies, especially large breeds, risks skeletal issues. If you home-cook, you must use a complete veterinary nutritionist formula and supplement exactly-eyeballing is not enough.
Grains aren’t villains. Most canine food allergies are to proteins like beef, chicken, or dairy. Grain-free formulas that rely heavily on pulses (peas, lentils) were implicated in past reports of diet-associated dilated cardiomyopathy in the U.S.; the picture is complex and still evolving. Your safest bet is choosing a company that publishes research, uses rigorous formulation, and can discuss their ingredient sourcing and testing.
Safety and storage: small habits, big health
- Treats: keep under 10% of daily calories. Use your dog’s calories, not a generic rule.
- Toxins: avoid xylitol, grapes/raisins, chocolate, onions/garlic, alcohol, macadamias, and cooked bones.
- Storage: keep kibble in its original bag (for lot info) inside an airtight container; use within 4-6 weeks. Refrigerate opened wet food and toss after 2-3 days.
- Raw handling: separate utensils, disinfect surfaces, wash hands, and don’t feed raw to immunocompromised people or pets in the home.
- Bowls: wash daily; biofilm grows faster than you think.
How to choose a trustworthy brand
Use the WSAVA-aligned checklist and ask the company:
- Who formulates your diets? Look for a board-certified or PhD nutritionist.
- Do you run AAFCO feeding trials or publish digestibility and safety data?
- What quality control do you use (ingredient verification, mycotoxin and pathogen testing, nutrient assays)?
- Can you provide a typical nutrient analysis (not just minima/maxima) and calories per gram?
- How do you handle recalls and batch traceability?
New Zealand owners can also check for MPI compliance and whether a company is part of recognized industry bodies with auditable standards. Export-approved plants usually have robust documentation. Transparency and responsiveness are green flags.
Putting it in the bowl: practical feeding plan
- Pick the life-stage-appropriate food that meets AAFCO or FEDIAF and passes your WSAVA check.
- Calculate your dog’s daily calories (RER × factor). Convert to grams/cups using the food’s kcal per cup or per 100 g.
- Split into 2-3 meals (puppies more often), and measure with a gram scale for accuracy.
- Adjust every 2-3 weeks using BCS and weight. 10-15% tweaks are normal.
- Keep treats below 10% of daily calories; account for chews and toppers.
Transitioning without tummy drama
Switch foods gradually: Day 1-2: 25% new; Day 3-4: 50% new; Day 5-6: 75% new; Day 7: 100% new. Sensitive dogs may need 10-14 days. Add water to dry food and feed smaller, more frequent meals during the change. If vomiting, diarrhea, or refusal continues beyond 24-48 hours, circle back to the previous step or call your vet.
When home-cooked or raw makes sense (and when it doesn’t)
Home-cooked can be excellent for dogs with complex medical needs or severe food allergies-but only with a veterinary nutritionist’s recipe and the exact supplement pack. Common DIY errors include low calcium, low essential fatty acids, and vitamin D issues. Expect to spend more time and money than commercial diets.
Raw diets are a personal risk decision. If you go that route, choose a company that validates pathogen control, provides complete and balanced formulations, discloses typical nutrient values, and supports safe handling. Households with young kids, elderly, pregnant, or immunocompromised members should avoid raw due to infection risk.
Real-world examples (because numbers help)
- Active 10 kg terrier, intact adult: RER ≈ 70 × 10^0.75 ≈ 394 kcal; MER (intact, active) ≈ 394 × 2.0 ≈ 790 kcal/day. If the food is 420 kcal/cup, feed ~1.9 cups/day and reassess in 2 weeks.
- Large-breed puppy, 25 kg at 6 months: choose a “growth including large size” formula; start around RER × 2.0; keep BCS at 4-5/9 and avoid fast gain.
- Senior 28 kg lab with arthritis: keep protein moderate-to-high quality, control calories to BCS 4-5/9, and consider fish oil or green-lipped mussel under vet guidance.
Related concepts you’ll likely explore next
Once feeding is sorted, you’ll want to dive into joint supplements (green-lipped mussel, fish oil), healthy treats for training, safe chews, and dental care that actually works (VOHC-accepted diets and daily brushing). If your dog travels often, a consistent diet plan and portable measuring kit prevents stomach upsets on the road.
Key entities you’ll see referenced
Veterinary nutritionist is a professional with advanced training (often board-certified or PhD) who formulates balanced diets and therapeutic recipes for individual dogs.
Complete and balanced is a legal label claim indicating a food meets all essential nutrients for a stated life stage, per AAFCO or FEDIAF profiles or feeding trials.
And yes, the phrase everyone searches-best dog food-really means the food that meets these standards and fits your dog’s body, your routine, and your safety comfort.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the single best thing to feed most dogs?
A complete and balanced commercial diet that meets AAFCO or FEDIAF for your dog’s life stage, from a company that follows WSAVA-aligned practices. Format (kibble, wet, fresh-cooked) is secondary to nutritional adequacy and safety. Adjust calories to keep a Body Condition Score of 4-5/9.
Is grain-free better for dogs?
Not by default. Most canine food allergies are to proteins like beef, chicken, or dairy-not grains. Some grain-free diets using high levels of pulses were associated with reports of diet-related dilated cardiomyopathy in the U.S., though the science is ongoing. Choose brands with robust formulation, published data, and transparent quality control rather than focusing on “grain-free” as a health claim.
How do I calculate how much to feed my dog?
Use RER = 70 × (kg^0.75). Multiply by a factor (neutered adult ~1.6; puppy 0-4 months ~3.0; 4-12 months ~2.0). Convert calories to cups or grams using the label’s kcal/cup or kcal/100 g. Recheck weight and Body Condition Score in 2-3 weeks and adjust by 10-15% as needed.
Are raw diets safe?
Raw diets carry higher bacterial risk (Salmonella, Listeria, Campylobacter) and potential nutrient imbalances if not formulated by a qualified nutritionist. Some companies use pathogen-reduction steps like HPP, which lowers risk but doesn’t eliminate it. Avoid raw in homes with immunocompromised people or pets. If you choose raw, pick a complete and balanced product and practice strict hygiene.
Do seniors need low-protein diets?
Usually no. Healthy senior dogs often benefit from moderate-to-high quality protein to maintain muscle. Low-protein diets are reserved for specific medical conditions under veterinary supervision (e.g., some kidney or liver diseases). Focus on calorie control, joint support, and regular checkups.
What treats are safe and how many can I give?
Keep treats under 10% of daily calories. Good options include pieces of your dog’s regular kibble, low-fat commercial treats with clear calorie counts, or tiny bits of cooked lean meat. Avoid xylitol, grapes/raisins, chocolate, onions/garlic, macadamias, and cooked bones. Count dental chews and training rewards toward the daily total.
How do I read “complete and balanced” on the label?
Look for a statement like “Formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles for [life stage]” or “Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that [product] provides complete and balanced nutrition for [life stage].” It should also list calories per unit and a feeding guide.
Should I use supplements like fish oil or green-lipped mussel?
They can help, especially for skin and joint support. Typical fish oil dosing is about 50-100 mg EPA+DHA per kg body weight daily, but check with your vet if your dog has GI issues or is on medications. Green-lipped mussel (common in NZ) supports joints, but dosing varies by product. Don’t add calcium or multivitamins to a complete and balanced food unless your vet advises it.
How fast should I switch foods?
Plan 5-7 days: 25% new for two days, 50% for two days, 75% for two days, then 100%. Very sensitive dogs may need 10-14 days. Add water to dry food and feed smaller meals during the transition. If vomiting or diarrhea persists, slow down or consult your vet.
Can I feed a mix of kibble and wet?
Yes. Many dogs do well on mixed feeding. Just make sure the total calories are correct and both foods are complete and balanced for the same life stage. If your dog needs a therapeutic diet, mixing with a regular food can dilute the medical benefits-ask your vet first.